 The way of Saint James routes
Probably one of the most active routes in the first years of the pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela was the one that ran along the Cantabrian coast. Numerous chapels, pilgrims’ hospitals, monasteries and place names bear witness to this ancient route. However, the harsh conditions of the coastal route, together with the Christian kings’ support for the inland pilgrimage routes, led to the Northern or Coastal Route becoming a secondary path.
In the 9th century the coast of Gipuzkoa, linked to Atlantic Europe by both land and sea since Roman times, started to receive pilgrims who took advantage of the existing commercial routes on their way to Santiago. Many arrived by sea and started on foot from one of the many ports along the Cantabrian coast. Others started their journey from the continent, Aquitaine or even more distant lands, and after stopping at Bayonne, would make it to the Bidasoa River in Hendaye. It was a difficult route, since the terrain was steep and sparsely populated, but the presence of the Muslim armies to the south made it the only possible land route to the desired destination.
A landscape much different from today’s surrounded this ancient path. Leafy forests covered the mountains, and vast wetlands stretched across the valleys and river estuaries. The pilgrims had to ford the rivers further inland on foot or by boat, and were generally exempt from payment.
On the eastern bank of the Bidasoa River was the very old Zubernoa Priory, a convent with a pilgrims ‘hospital’, a place to rest before continuing on the Way of St. James through the territory of Gipuzkoa. The passage was crossed by boat until the 13th century, when a wooden bridge enabled the crossing to Irun. Hondarribia was another port of arrival for the pilgrims coming by sea from far away lands. The large numbers of people along the way led to the construction of many churches, chapels and hospitals, and to the development of burgeoning coastal towns in Gipuzkoa, founded over the course of two hundred years after 1180. Associated with the worship of St. James and marking the holy path, numerous chapels were erected in honour of hospitable saints such as Saint Martin of Tours, Saint Roch, Saint Sebastian, Saint Pelayo, Saint Mary Magdalen and Saint Anthony. The pilgrims’ hospitals were located along the route, present in practically every town along the way. Crosses and place names round out the legend of the Pilgrims’ way, representing its ancient tradition.
STAGES OF THE NORTHERN ROUTE (OR COASTAL ROUTE) IN GIPUZKOA
Today the Pilgrims’ Way of St. James-Coastal Route recovers part of its original vitality. It now passes through a much more populated land, and there are a number of bridges to cross the rivers. There are also a lot more pilgrim facilities and services than before.
This route can be easily followed through a well-marked path, which is normally far from high-traffic roads. It is also suitable for mountain biking and provides easier options for some of the roughest parts. The sections detailed below, of different lengths and durations, may be linked in different ways to make up a series of stages to fit your needs. Each section described here, with the exception of the one ending in Pasaia, ends at a town with lodging for pilgrims.
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Hondarribia-Irun >> Lezo >> Pasaia
From Hendaye there are two ways to cross the Bidasoa River and begin the route through Gipuzkoa: either over the Santiago Bridge towards Irun, or by boat on a pleasant trip to Hondarribia. Both beginnings link up to the same path a little later on at the Santiagotxo chapel.
Upon arriving at Irun, the church of Nuestra Señora del Juncal is worth a visit, with its replica of the Virgin of Juncal, an important 12th century Romanesque work, considered the oldest in Gipuzkoa. The trail from Irun to Santiagotxo is not marked. However, simply follow the path towards Hondarribia until reaching the stream in Amute, and after crossing the bridge, take the path on the left, which soon heads uphill until you reach the chapel.
Hondarribia’s walled-in old quarter and the fort of Charles V, which prevails over the town, are worth a visit. From here, follow the signs leading to the chapel of Santa Engrazi, with steps on its right side that mark the start of the path to Santiagotxo. Through a rural landscape you’ll climb up to the 16th century Guadalupe sanctuary, next to the fort of the same name. Nearby is a crossing that gives us two options: either follow the path to the top of Mount Jaizkibel, reaching 543 meters on a trail dotted with towers, or continue half-way up the hill on the southern side of the mountain along an easier path. Close to the end of the crest, the main path drops down to Lezo, a milestone on the coastal Way of St. James, as seen by the scallop shell on the wall to the left of the portico of the Santo Cristo basilica (17th century). Shortly from here, the trail takes you to Pasai Donibane.
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Pasaia >> Donostia/San Sebastián
In Pasai Donibane the chapel of Santa Ana, dating back to the 18th century, provides us with a wonderful panoramic view of the bay and its port. The church of Juan Bautista is also worth mention, as is the calvary located near the pier, where the pilgrims would stop to pray. A boat service still carries pilgrims and visitors to the other side.
One of the most spectacular sections of the coast of Gipuzkoa begins at Pasai San Pedro, where the path approaches the sea cliffs the sea cliffs. On the highest cliff stands the La Plata lighthouse, a fantastic watchtower over the port entrance. Further on, in the heart of Mount Ulia, the path climbs up near the old watchtower, used since medieval times to spot whales. The path drops down to the city providing the pilgrim with incomparable views.
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Donostia/San Sebastián >> Orio
Santa Maria and San Vicente churches are a must see in the capital, which houses several sculptures of the apostle in the San Telmo museum. Once outside the old town, and not very far from the neo-Gothic Buen Pastor Cathedral, we can find the small Santiago church hidden in the Amara Viejo neighbourhood, testimony to the St. James tradition in the city.
Continuing along the Paseo de La Concha seaside promenade, you’ll see Palacio Miramar, a stately mansion built in 1888 over the ruins of an old convent which had served as a refuge for many pilgrims over the years. After reaching the end of the bay, the path climbs up to a rural area called Igeldo, which has maintained its traditional character. Following easy trails and paths, we reach the first of the Orio country houses, until a path with some of the original cobbles still in place leads us to the ancient chapel of San Martin, anteroom to historic Orio.
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Orio >> Zarautz
In Orio we should highlight the town’s main street, Kale Nagusia, which follows the coastal route from San Sebastian to a pace where a boat used to shuttle pilgrims, exempt from payment by royal decree, to the other side of the river. After a short section along the river we reach Talaimendi hill, with its great views of the coast and its attractive Txakoli vineyards. Soon we reach Zarautz, where the tomb of an anonymous 15th century pilgrim lies next to the church of Santa Maria la Real.
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Zarautz >> Getaria >> Zumaia
From Zarautz’s old town the medieval path climbs steeply upwards through Txakoli vineyards until we approach the chapel of Santa Barbara, with extraordinary views of the coast. The path continues gently uphill, and soon we see a promontory dominated by the town of Getaria, one of the oldest ports in Gipuzkoa. Its medieval streets include the gothic San Salvador church, which was artfully constructed around a rocky outcrop.
After passing Getaria, we find sections of the path which date to the Middle Ages, leading us to the church of San Martín in Askizu, patron saint of pilgrims. Shortly, we reach the Urola estuary, which still has its ancient Santiago chapel and its annexed inn, which was converted to a museum by Ignacio Zuloaga in 1914.
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Zumaia >> Itziar >> Deba
Zumaia holds the unique San Pedro parish church, characterised by its fort-like appearance, and from which the main street follows the old coastal road until reaching the chapel of Arritokieta, marking the end of the old quarter.
Close to the path we can see the cliffs that dominate the coast between Zumaia and Deba. Here, a spectacular formation known as “flysch” can be seen. Wave erosion has revealed millions of years of geological history written in superimposed layers of rock.
Following the Way of St. James from Zumaia, an easy uphill walk will take you to the chapel of San Sebastian in Elorriaga (Elorrixe). Passing this immemorial chapel, like so many others on the coast, and following a somewhat uneven trail, we reach another milestone along the the Way of St. James in Gipuzkoa. The Sanctuary of Itziar holds a Romanesque statue of the Virgin Mary, one of the oldest in Gipuzkoa. From Itziar a trail leads downhill to the chapel of San Roque and soon afterwards, to the town of Deba.
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Deba >> Markina (Bizkaia)
In Deba we must highlight the 16th century church of Santa Maria, with its fascinating portico and cloister. In the Town Hall we can see a niche with a statue of St. James. At one time, the town had up to three pilgrims hospitals, and its port received many travellers ready to start the pilgrimage on foot to Santiago. From Deba the path temporarily abandons the coast and enters Biscay.
The path from Deba to Markina starts out with two options: either through Astigarribia or via the Mutriku Calvary. The first option is the more traditional route, which took advantage of the original river crossing, while the second is shorter and less hilly, thus more often used by pilgrims. Both meet up at Apain pass, just before Olatz, a quaint secluded country hamlet near the border with Biscay. After a stretch of wooded hilly terrain we reach the town of Markina-Xemein.
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Stage of the Way of Saint James in PDF format
The way of Saint James routes
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San Sebastián >> Orio
